Thursday, July 22, 2010
"A T-Bone steak, cheese, eggs and Welch's grape"
Last night we ate at Miranda, another parrillas. We both agree that it was the best meal of the trip (which is saying quite a lot). We ordered the grilled provelta with oregano as an appetizer again - amazing. Jen got a filet kabob and I got a filet - both amazing - and we split a side of mashed potatoes - amazing. For dessert, we had a dulche de leche pancake, which was a thin, sugary crepe filled with chocolate and caramel - amazing. All through dinner they played Notorious B.I.G. songs (an American rapper who died 13 years ago), including "Big Poppa," which features one of my favorite lines in the history of rap: "So we can steam on the way to the telly, go fill my belly: a t-bone steak, cheese, eggs and Welch's grape." It was a great night.
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
Tigre - part 2
Seeing it's our last full day in Buenos Aires, I think it's time I utilize my editing privileges to this blog and add a few important details Jack seemed to conveniently forget about our day trip.
1. Argentina also has major Bieber fever: (also note the reference to yesterday's "Day of the Friends" holiday).
(For all of you Spanish majors out there, anyone know what "En que anda?" means? According to my online translation tool, the Biebs is questionably walking??)
2. Perhaps the single most important event of our trip was our purchase of food at YFP, the local gas station. Jack got a ham and cheese sandwich (which he claimed was great) and I finally got this package of double-decker Oreos that I've been eying up in grocery stores and small shops ever since we arrived. Readers be warned: Oreos in South America are shrouded in deceptive packaging and will never hold up to the same quality of deliciousness as in the U.S. The packaging seen in the picture below portrays three crisp cookies overflowing with frosting. The frosting, in actuality, was nearly nonexistent.
1. Argentina also has major Bieber fever: (also note the reference to yesterday's "Day of the Friends" holiday).
(For all of you Spanish majors out there, anyone know what "En que anda?" means? According to my online translation tool, the Biebs is questionably walking??)
2. Perhaps the single most important event of our trip was our purchase of food at YFP, the local gas station. Jack got a ham and cheese sandwich (which he claimed was great) and I finally got this package of double-decker Oreos that I've been eying up in grocery stores and small shops ever since we arrived. Readers be warned: Oreos in South America are shrouded in deceptive packaging and will never hold up to the same quality of deliciousness as in the U.S. The packaging seen in the picture below portrays three crisp cookies overflowing with frosting. The frosting, in actuality, was nearly nonexistent.
Tigre
Today we went to Tigre, which is a smaller city north of Buenos Aires on the delta of the Rio de la Plata. The region is geared toward tourism and includes many boat trips of the delta area, restaurants, an amusement park and other items. We took a cab from the city to the Muipa train station, just outside the city and then had a 30-minute train ride to Tigre. The train, which was full of families heading to Tigre for the day, snaked through a series of suburban neighborhoods, some of which were very high end.
Historically, the area was populated in part by Italian immigrants, and the Italian rowing club has existed for over 100 years:
There's also this old historic building:
Which is now a casino called "Trillenium"...
... where in just 10 minutes of slot playing, we turned 10 pesos into 33 pesos! As soon as we got up on the house, Jen insisted that we cash out right away, but kept one peso chip as a souvenir:
Then we went to the market down the street to spend our winnings. There were hundreds of vendors of various items, including many kitchen supplies and housewares, furniture, plants, baskets, fruits, blankets, clothes, toys, and all kinds of small trinkets and gifts. The market wrapped around for probably a total of 2 miles.
We stopped for a bite to eat at Arramas Snack Bar, which was right on the river.
Just like Buenos Aires, there were dogs everywhere. This one was sleeping in the street.
We then headed back and grabbed the train back to the city, walked quite a few blocks back toward the city (including past the Quinta de Olivos, which is the residence of the President of Argentina) and then grabbed a cab back to the hotel.
Historically, the area was populated in part by Italian immigrants, and the Italian rowing club has existed for over 100 years:
There's also this old historic building:
Which is now a casino called "Trillenium"...
... where in just 10 minutes of slot playing, we turned 10 pesos into 33 pesos! As soon as we got up on the house, Jen insisted that we cash out right away, but kept one peso chip as a souvenir:
Then we went to the market down the street to spend our winnings. There were hundreds of vendors of various items, including many kitchen supplies and housewares, furniture, plants, baskets, fruits, blankets, clothes, toys, and all kinds of small trinkets and gifts. The market wrapped around for probably a total of 2 miles.
We stopped for a bite to eat at Arramas Snack Bar, which was right on the river.
Just like Buenos Aires, there were dogs everywhere. This one was sleeping in the street.
We then headed back and grabbed the train back to the city, walked quite a few blocks back toward the city (including past the Quinta de Olivos, which is the residence of the President of Argentina) and then grabbed a cab back to the hotel.
El Trapiche
We had dinner at El Trapiche last night, a traditional parillas restaurant a few blocks from the hotel. I had the lomo de champignon, which was the greatest steak I've ever had (or will ever have) in my life. Jen ordered what we thought was a "first tier" portion of roast, but it appears to have been a "first tier" quality of meat. Luckily we also had pasta. (I would have shared some of my steak if it wasn't so good.) The craziest thing about all of these steakhouses is the price - we are eating large, high quality (except for Jen last night) portions of steak and having a bottle of wine for $50-$60 US (for the two of us). It's awesome. My arteries are especially loving it.
It is always very difficult to reserve a table at a steakhouse in Argentina because I think they only take one reservation per table per night (and meals take a really long time). But last night (a Tuesday) was even harder because it was Dia del Amigos. That's right, Argentina has a holiday called the "Day of Friends."
Today we had planned to go to Colonia Sacramento across the river in Uruguay (take a ferry), but we are changing it up per the recommendation of Gladys (one of the concierges) and heading to La Tigre river delta, which has some historical buildings and a large open air market.
It is always very difficult to reserve a table at a steakhouse in Argentina because I think they only take one reservation per table per night (and meals take a really long time). But last night (a Tuesday) was even harder because it was Dia del Amigos. That's right, Argentina has a holiday called the "Day of Friends."
Today we had planned to go to Colonia Sacramento across the river in Uruguay (take a ferry), but we are changing it up per the recommendation of Gladys (one of the concierges) and heading to La Tigre river delta, which has some historical buildings and a large open air market.
Tuesday, July 20, 2010
THE SUN!
Today was a beautiful day in Buenos Aires. The sun was finally out, so we walked around all day. First we walked down to the botanical gardens, where we saw this group of dogs all tied up outside. (Large groups of dogs are a very common sight here, and there are dog droppings all over the sidewalk and streets, with no apparent laws or social customs to pick up after your dog).
The botanical gardens were quite beautiful, despite being filled with feral cats!
Then we headed right across the street to the zoo. The zoo is interesting in that the exhibits are designed to include remakes of old temples and ruins and several small species of herbivores are allowed to roam all over the zoo. Children are sold little buckets of animal food, which they are allowed to feed to most of the animals throughout the zoo, including this bison:
Like Siegfried and Roy, I am a huge fan of white tigers. This zoo had one, which was awesome:
Jen said this goat looked like Ray Charles because its eyes were kind of off-center and it swayed back and forth at this opening in the fence looking for food (similar to Ray Charles playing piano):
There was also a maned wolf at the zoo, a long-legged carnivore of the South American plains, which my dad has never seen. In your face, Jim O'Brien!
Then we wandered over to the Japanese garden:
Then we meandered about the city and passed by the Starbucks outside the city's main mall (Alto Palermo), which had an unbelievable line of teenagers:
We stopped in at Bonjour Pizza on the way back to the hotel for a late lunch and tried out Argentinian pizza. We had mozzarella with "jamon y morrones," which I knew was "ham and something," but Jen insisted that we get it. "Morrones" is huge slices of red peppers, so we removed those. The pizza was awesome, of course accompanied with a couple of Quilmes.
On the way back to the hotel to rest up before dinner, we stopped in to get a bottle of wine at the grocery store and saw these two bottles of liquor:
Now we're resting up and heading out to dinner at a steakhouse later on...
The botanical gardens were quite beautiful, despite being filled with feral cats!
Then we headed right across the street to the zoo. The zoo is interesting in that the exhibits are designed to include remakes of old temples and ruins and several small species of herbivores are allowed to roam all over the zoo. Children are sold little buckets of animal food, which they are allowed to feed to most of the animals throughout the zoo, including this bison:
Like Siegfried and Roy, I am a huge fan of white tigers. This zoo had one, which was awesome:
Jen said this goat looked like Ray Charles because its eyes were kind of off-center and it swayed back and forth at this opening in the fence looking for food (similar to Ray Charles playing piano):
There was also a maned wolf at the zoo, a long-legged carnivore of the South American plains, which my dad has never seen. In your face, Jim O'Brien!
Then we wandered over to the Japanese garden:
Then we meandered about the city and passed by the Starbucks outside the city's main mall (Alto Palermo), which had an unbelievable line of teenagers:
We stopped in at Bonjour Pizza on the way back to the hotel for a late lunch and tried out Argentinian pizza. We had mozzarella with "jamon y morrones," which I knew was "ham and something," but Jen insisted that we get it. "Morrones" is huge slices of red peppers, so we removed those. The pizza was awesome, of course accompanied with a couple of Quilmes.
On the way back to the hotel to rest up before dinner, we stopped in to get a bottle of wine at the grocery store and saw these two bottles of liquor:
Now we're resting up and heading out to dinner at a steakhouse later on...
Monday, July 19, 2010
Another great dinner...
Just came back from dinner at Mumbai (Indian food) and dessert at a little bar called Terra (a decent apple pie). We were the first people to arrive at Mumbai for dinner - around 9 pm! By the time we left at 11, it was getting very crowded. Every other restaurant we passed on the way to Mumbai was empty, and on the way back was filled beyond capacity. We can't believe how late people eat here - Jen is especially happy that such late scheduling is not the U.S. norm.
Earlier this evening we went to "Winery," a new wine and spirits store about five blocks from the hotel that has only been open for one month. It was extremely nice, and we purchased four bottles of wine, two large bottles of beer and a bag of Herr's barbeque potato chips (manufactured in Pennsylvania) for $48 (US). What a deal! (Jen insisted that I mention the chips).
Supposedly the weather is supposed to be 60 degrees and sunny tomorrow - a perfect day for the zoo? Stay tuned...
Earlier this evening we went to "Winery," a new wine and spirits store about five blocks from the hotel that has only been open for one month. It was extremely nice, and we purchased four bottles of wine, two large bottles of beer and a bag of Herr's barbeque potato chips (manufactured in Pennsylvania) for $48 (US). What a deal! (Jen insisted that I mention the chips).
Supposedly the weather is supposed to be 60 degrees and sunny tomorrow - a perfect day for the zoo? Stay tuned...
Haircut, Hermann's and History (Natural)
Another rainy day in Buenos Aires. After the Embassy, we grabbed breakfast at the hotel and then went out to wander around, with no real plans. Seeing as I hadn't had my hair cut in the past 87 days, we decided to go to this little barbershop/salon around the corner and get an Argentinian haircut. The dude was really nice and I actually got a good haircut for about $13 (US), including tip. Here's the before and after:
Then we just wandered around the city. Jen thought it would be fun to go into a grocery store and see all of the things that are unlike a U.S. grocery store, like Bimbo bread.
Then we happened upon this awesome old-school restaurant named Hermann's, which was a great place to warm up and dry off.
The wait staff was entirely composed of little old men, like these two:
We then took a cab down to the Natural History Museum. Like most people, I'm a huge fan of prehistoric mammals, and this museum's collection did not disappoint; however, the museum as a whole was rather small and unimpressive. It also appeared to have no heating system. Luckily, there were a few dozen dirty cats out front, being fed by a couple of bag ladies. Maybe they were fattening them up for a forthcoming exhibit.
Not really sure what the plans are for tonight...
(Professor Laskey hot)
(Colin Farrel hot)
Then we just wandered around the city. Jen thought it would be fun to go into a grocery store and see all of the things that are unlike a U.S. grocery store, like Bimbo bread.
Then we happened upon this awesome old-school restaurant named Hermann's, which was a great place to warm up and dry off.
The wait staff was entirely composed of little old men, like these two:
We then took a cab down to the Natural History Museum. Like most people, I'm a huge fan of prehistoric mammals, and this museum's collection did not disappoint; however, the museum as a whole was rather small and unimpressive. It also appeared to have no heating system. Luckily, there were a few dozen dirty cats out front, being fed by a couple of bag ladies. Maybe they were fattening them up for a forthcoming exhibit.
Not really sure what the plans are for tonight...
Life Imitating Hacked E-mail
Many of you reading this may recall approximately three weeks ago when my gmail was hacked into by some dude in Nigeria and he sent out an e-mail to everyone in my gmail contacts, pretending to be me and saying that I was mugged of my passport while vacationing in Wales (or something like that).
Well, between the last customs check at the airport and the door of our hotel, I lost my passport when we first arrived Friday night. I had to have dropped it in the cab while fumbling through papers looking for the address of our hotel, but it was the craziest thing ever. It completely vanished. So bizarre.
I didn't want to mention it on the blog until the entire situation was resolved, so that nobody would worry. The hotel staff was a tremendous help - they printed out a new passport application, came to the Argentinian police station with us to file a report (a requirement for a new passport) and told us where the nearest Kodak store was to get passport photos (which is why we went to the mall on Saturday).
This morning we went to the US Embassy to get the "emergency passport," which is good for 90 days. Being a US citizen there was a huge benefit, because we jumped to the front of every line, while dozens of Argentinians waited in chaotic lines for various visas. We were back at the hotel in time for a late breakfast (despite being briefly detained outside the US Embassy for attempting to take a commemorative photo, which is apparently against the law). All in all, the loss of the passport didn't hamper our vacation too much, but it was quite a worrisome feeling when upon arriving at your hotel thousands of miles from home, you reach in your pocket and your passport is missing.
Here's a picture of my spankin' new passport...
... right before I dropped it over this ledge.
(just kidding)
Also noteworthy was this truck delivering entire sides of beef, which was parked right outside our hotel when we returned from the Embassy:
Well, between the last customs check at the airport and the door of our hotel, I lost my passport when we first arrived Friday night. I had to have dropped it in the cab while fumbling through papers looking for the address of our hotel, but it was the craziest thing ever. It completely vanished. So bizarre.
I didn't want to mention it on the blog until the entire situation was resolved, so that nobody would worry. The hotel staff was a tremendous help - they printed out a new passport application, came to the Argentinian police station with us to file a report (a requirement for a new passport) and told us where the nearest Kodak store was to get passport photos (which is why we went to the mall on Saturday).
This morning we went to the US Embassy to get the "emergency passport," which is good for 90 days. Being a US citizen there was a huge benefit, because we jumped to the front of every line, while dozens of Argentinians waited in chaotic lines for various visas. We were back at the hotel in time for a late breakfast (despite being briefly detained outside the US Embassy for attempting to take a commemorative photo, which is apparently against the law). All in all, the loss of the passport didn't hamper our vacation too much, but it was quite a worrisome feeling when upon arriving at your hotel thousands of miles from home, you reach in your pocket and your passport is missing.
Here's a picture of my spankin' new passport...
... right before I dropped it over this ledge.
(just kidding)
Also noteworthy was this truck delivering entire sides of beef, which was parked right outside our hotel when we returned from the Embassy:
Sunday, July 18, 2010
La Cabrera
Just got back from dinner at La Cabrera - it was pretty good, but we'd have to say that Don Julio's was better (although the steak was probably a bit better at La Cabrera). Supposedly it's one of the top restaurants in Buenos Aires - and you could tell from the group outside waiting for a table (even on a Sunday night). Jen wasn't feeling that well, so I ate most of her steak after I ate mine. I also drank her wine. It was awesome. (Jen's feeling better now, by the way). Jen also snapped a pic of this super sexy dude with a big meaty bulge in his cheek:
Raining? Go outside all day!
Well, it was rainy and cold in Buenos Aires today, so we decided to do outdoor activities. To cope with the weather, we headed back to the mall to find raincoats. Argentinians must really love North Face, because North Face raincoats are approximately $650 US. That's just absurd. We didn't find any decently priced raincoats, so we purchased two crappy umbrellas. Mission accomplished.
Next we went down to the San Telmo market, a local market known for antiques and various other items that is held only on Sundays. As you can imagine, the crowds and the exhibitors were not as numerous given the weather, but we were still able to check out a beautiful old church:
Then we walked around a bit in the market. It was a beautiful neighborhood, despite the weather, with very old streets, like this:
Jen loved her umbrella, even though it collapsed no less than 20 times:
Then we saw a guy who combined Argentinians' two greatest passions: rain protection and dental hygiene:
We went into a bar to dry off and get something to eat. We were sitting around on the second floor, having a couple of Quilmes and minding our business, when a tango "show" brokeout:
It was okay, but pretty weird. I don't think they were on the A-List of tango dancers. We gave them 7 pesos.
Then we cut back through the market and grabbed a cab to Recoletta Cemetery - a very creepy place to go on a very dreary day.
It's full of above-ground mosques, nearly all of which are gated or have glass facades so as to allow you to look in and see the old, wooden coffins of the various members of a prominent Argentinian family. Many of the mosques are broken down and decrepit, so you can really check those out with full access:
There's also a gang of cats that wildly roam the place, eating on the remains of the dead (the former part is true, but not the latter). Here's a picture of Patrick, the leader of the gang:
Recoletta is also the site of Evita's tomb:
It was a pretty cool experience and also useful, in that I came up with the perfect way to memorialize Jen and Kemble if the unfortunate event of their predeceasing me were ever to occur:
We took a cab back to the hotel to dry off and relax. I did some work and Jen watched some clips from "Cheaters" on youtube. In a bit, we're heading to Cabrera's for dinner.
Next we went down to the San Telmo market, a local market known for antiques and various other items that is held only on Sundays. As you can imagine, the crowds and the exhibitors were not as numerous given the weather, but we were still able to check out a beautiful old church:
Then we walked around a bit in the market. It was a beautiful neighborhood, despite the weather, with very old streets, like this:
Jen loved her umbrella, even though it collapsed no less than 20 times:
Then we saw a guy who combined Argentinians' two greatest passions: rain protection and dental hygiene:
We went into a bar to dry off and get something to eat. We were sitting around on the second floor, having a couple of Quilmes and minding our business, when a tango "show" brokeout:
It was okay, but pretty weird. I don't think they were on the A-List of tango dancers. We gave them 7 pesos.
Then we cut back through the market and grabbed a cab to Recoletta Cemetery - a very creepy place to go on a very dreary day.
It's full of above-ground mosques, nearly all of which are gated or have glass facades so as to allow you to look in and see the old, wooden coffins of the various members of a prominent Argentinian family. Many of the mosques are broken down and decrepit, so you can really check those out with full access:
There's also a gang of cats that wildly roam the place, eating on the remains of the dead (the former part is true, but not the latter). Here's a picture of Patrick, the leader of the gang:
Recoletta is also the site of Evita's tomb:
It was a pretty cool experience and also useful, in that I came up with the perfect way to memorialize Jen and Kemble if the unfortunate event of their predeceasing me were ever to occur:
We took a cab back to the hotel to dry off and relax. I did some work and Jen watched some clips from "Cheaters" on youtube. In a bit, we're heading to Cabrera's for dinner.
Saturday, July 17, 2010
First Full Day in Buenos Aires
Our first full day in Buenos Aires flew by (still no pictures - but tomorrow, we promise!). We woke up and went down to the little restaurant in our hotel for the "Home Breakfast," which included a "shot" of scrambled eggs, breads, fruits, juices and cafe con leche. Then we went out to walk around the neighborhood and do some shopping. It's pretty cold here (about 40 degrees Farenheit in the morning) and all of Jen's shoes (other than her flip flops) were in the bag that the airline lost, so we tried to find some shoes for Jen. Long story short, there are no shoes in Argentina that fit Jen's feet and style requirements. But it was a great way to walk around the neighborhood, see the stores (none of which open before noon on Saturday) and check out a local market that was going on. We received no less than 50 stares as "those stupid Americans" walking around in flip flops (with a cup of Starbucks).
After a failed attempt at finding Jen shoes, we came back to the hotel and were informed that the airline had just dropped off Jen's back - so Jen's finicky shoe shopping and huge feet turned out to be a money-saver.
Later on, we walked to the downtown to run an errand at the main shopping mall (more on this in a future blog post...) and grabbed a bite to eat at a little restaurant/bar downtown, which was pretty cool (our first menu with zero English). I sampled Quilmes (one of the local beers) and explained (purely at Jen's request, I swear) how the speculative investments of large financial institutions facilitated the acceleration of the economic recession. (Jen said, after two glasses of wine, that it was "riveting"). Also of note, after coaching Jen no less than 12 times in how to politely ask for a glass of water, she panicked when the waiter came and sheepishly said, "Agua?" As Jen always says, blame the student, not the teacher, right? It was nice to walk around the city and see the sights. The mall was pretty impressive (if you like malls).
We then headed back to the hotel and rested up a bit before heading out for an amazing dinner at Don Julio's. The local specialty is "parillas" (pronounced "pear-ee-shas"), which describes a steakhouse style of grilling meat. It was awesome. If you're there in the near future - look above the middle of the bar for the bottle of wine we signed: "Excellente! Muchas gracias, Don Julio! Jack & Jen, Philadelphia USA." (Jen insists that I note that we selected the wine based on a Saved By the Bell Reference. In the episode where Jessie's step-brother from NYC comes to town, he has a notable east-coast accent and repeatedly says, "Ah... Lisa" to Lisa Turtle. The bottle of wine was "A Lisa" from Patogonia).
Tomorrow is the San Telmo market and whatever else we feel like! We promise to post pictures tomorrow.
After a failed attempt at finding Jen shoes, we came back to the hotel and were informed that the airline had just dropped off Jen's back - so Jen's finicky shoe shopping and huge feet turned out to be a money-saver.
Later on, we walked to the downtown to run an errand at the main shopping mall (more on this in a future blog post...) and grabbed a bite to eat at a little restaurant/bar downtown, which was pretty cool (our first menu with zero English). I sampled Quilmes (one of the local beers) and explained (purely at Jen's request, I swear) how the speculative investments of large financial institutions facilitated the acceleration of the economic recession. (Jen said, after two glasses of wine, that it was "riveting"). Also of note, after coaching Jen no less than 12 times in how to politely ask for a glass of water, she panicked when the waiter came and sheepishly said, "Agua?" As Jen always says, blame the student, not the teacher, right? It was nice to walk around the city and see the sights. The mall was pretty impressive (if you like malls).
We then headed back to the hotel and rested up a bit before heading out for an amazing dinner at Don Julio's. The local specialty is "parillas" (pronounced "pear-ee-shas"), which describes a steakhouse style of grilling meat. It was awesome. If you're there in the near future - look above the middle of the bar for the bottle of wine we signed: "Excellente! Muchas gracias, Don Julio! Jack & Jen, Philadelphia USA." (Jen insists that I note that we selected the wine based on a Saved By the Bell Reference. In the episode where Jessie's step-brother from NYC comes to town, he has a notable east-coast accent and repeatedly says, "Ah... Lisa" to Lisa Turtle. The bottle of wine was "A Lisa" from Patogonia).
Tomorrow is the San Telmo market and whatever else we feel like! We promise to post pictures tomorrow.
Friday, July 16, 2010
We made it...
After a long day of traveling (thanks to Team O'Brien for the early a.m. delivery), we finally made it to our hotel. The hotel is great and everyone is very nice. The flight from Miami to Buenos Aires was great - we had business class seats that converted to recliners or beds and individual TVs with a pick of newly released movies, tv shows or games. Unfortunately one of Jen's two bags was left in Miami, but should be delivered tomorrow. We had an interesting cab ride to the hotel - moments after being handed a "don't take unsanctioned cabs" warning from an airport police officer, this legitimate cab driver approached us and guided us toward a legitimate cab, only to have some other dude pull up in some other car and take us. It was probably against our better judgment, but everything turned out fine and the guy was pretty nice. I was impressed with my mild recollection of high school Spanish. I think we're calling it a night tonight and taking on the city tomorrow. Can't wait.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
Itinerary
Friday, July 16 - 5:55-9:50 am flight ORD to MIA; 11:10 am-8:50 pm flight MIA to EZE
Saturday July 17 - Thursday July 22 - do stuff
Thursday, July 22 - 8:40 pm-4:50 am flight EZE to MIA; Friday, July 23 - 7:00 am - 9:10 am flight MIA to ORD
Where we're staying: Hotel Home - Honduras 5860, Palermo Hollywood (website)
Saturday July 17 - Thursday July 22 - do stuff
Thursday, July 22 - 8:40 pm-4:50 am flight EZE to MIA; Friday, July 23 - 7:00 am - 9:10 am flight MIA to ORD
Where we're staying: Hotel Home - Honduras 5860, Palermo Hollywood (website)
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